I have added a planning online maken professional-looking nose cone.
You could use the hammered silver like I did, or go with another metal looking spray.
Once dry, you should be able to pick your piece up without any parts moving.
If it does wind up over time, it is no big deal to simply disconnect the wires at the bottom and manually unwind.The little perf-board in the lower center with the ICs and other bits on it is the actual controller circuit.I also found a scrap disk of Aluminum 5 inches in diameter and inch thick that I could bolt the blades onto, but wouldn't attach to the motor shaft.I am only using one right now, but I could easily add a second wind turbine or even a photovoltaic solar panel to the system using the second one."Cut nine strips out of the metal, ten centimetres wide and.2 metres long says Dartnell.The wind was up and the turbine was spinning.I sort of averaged them and came up with my numbers.The double row of gold rectangles across the top is a dummy load made up of high-Wattage resistors.
So be careful out there.
Here is a close-up of the solar panel.
Cut your wood dowels to your desired length. .
For testing though, this arrangement worked fine.Later I plugged a long extension cord into the inverter and stretched it back to my camp site.So they aren't great generators.My system was just designed to provide a couple of hundred Watts tops in an area where no other electric options were available.I gave it a real test by chucking it up in my drill press and connecting it to a dummy load.I had left most of the equipment on-site in Arizona.
For the tower base, I started by cutting a 2 foot diameter disk out of plywood.
I first determined how tall I wanted the top X to be, I went with 24.
Without the cone, air hitting the flat hub must become turbulent and not contribute significantly to driving the turbine.